Scotland portal United Kingdom portal. Stewart, author of The Setts of the Scottish Tartans , gives a few theories as to the possible origins of this tartan. However, on an "asymmetrical" tartan, the sett does not reverse at the pivots, it just repeats at the pivots. John Sobieski and Charles Allen Hay. Tartan, The Highland Textile , p.
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Three of the six companies were Campbell ones… It would appear that this sett, or one very like it, was the one appointed for the Highland Companies in and became the tartan adopted by the Black Watch… when the six companies were regimented to form that famous military unit in However, one only needs look at the dates for this theory to become suspect.
Stewart, author of The Setts of the Scottish Tartans , gives a few theories as to the possible origins of this tartan. Ultimately he states that the tartan seems to have been created new at the time of the formation of the regiment, but gives the possibility that it was created by combining elements of other pre-existing tartans. Keep in mind, however, that Alastair Campbell wrote in and D.
Thankfully, more current research has been able to shed some light on this issue. A Re-Appraisal , by James D. Scarlett, published by Partizan Press in But his conclusion, after considering all of the available evidence, is that the Black Watch tartan is actually the result of some evolution.
To summarize this development, Scarlett shows how the Independent Companies in wore dark tartans, based on a simple pattern of equal amounts of blue, black and green, with a narrower band of color on either end of the pattern to distinguish them. In the companies wore a tartan common to all. We do not know what this tartan was, but it was not the Black Watch. Scarlett is of the opinion that a tartan with a red stripe on the blue, and a black stripe on the green, was most likely.
Lastly, it is his opinion that the Black Watch tartan as we know it was not assigned until the regiment was renumbered the 42nd in What makes the Black Watch tartan so distinctive is the occurrence of alternating single pairs and double pairs of black lines on the blue.
Since that time, this motif has been found in many other tartans. They are usually designed using combinations of black and white. Clever Victorian entrepreneurs not only created new tartans, but new tartan objects called tartanware. Tartan was incorporated in an assortment of common household objects, such as snuffboxes , jewellery cases, tableware, sewing accessories, and desk items.
Tourists visiting the Scottish Highlands went home with it, and Scottish-based businesses sent tartanware out as gifts to customers. In the Victorian and Edwardian eras, tartan-clad garments were featured in fashion catalogues.
By then, tartan had shifted from being mainly a component of men's clothing to become an important part of women's fashion. In consequence of its association with the British aristocracy and military, tartan developed an air of dignity and exclusivity. Because of this, tartan has made reappearances in the world of fashion several times.
For instance, tartan made a resurgence in its use in punk fashion. In the late s, punk music was a way for youth in the British Isles to voice their discontent with the ruling class.
The unorthodox use of tartan, which had long been associated with authority and gentility , was then seen as the expression of discontent against modern society. In this way tartan, worn unconventionally, became an anti-establishment symbol. Depending upon how "different tartan" is defined, it has been estimated that there are about 3,  to 7,  different tartans, with around new designs being created every year. The 7, figure above includes many of these variations counted as though they were different tartans.
Until the late 20th century, instead of a central, official tartan registry, several independent organisations located in Scotland, Canada, and the United States documented and recorded tartans. It also aims to be the definitive source for the registration of new tartans that pass NAS criteria for inclusion. On the Register's website users can register new tartans for a fee , search for and request the threadcounts of existing tartans and receive notifications of newly registered tartans.
The current version of the STA's ITI, for example, already contains a large number of tartans that do not appear in the SRT, and the gulf will only widen under current policy. Since the Victorian era , authorities on tartan have stated that there is an etiquette to wearing tartan, specifically tartan attributed to clans or families. This concept of the entitlement to certain tartans has led to the term of universal tartan , or free tartan , which describes tartan which can be worn by anyone.
Note that some modern tartans are protected by trademark law, and the trademark proprietor can, in certain circumstances, prevent others from selling that tartan. Many books on Scottish clans list such rules and guidelines.
This means that children who bear their father's surname belong to the father's clan if any , and that children who bear their mother's surname her maiden name belong to their mother's clan if any. Even so, some weavers outside of the United Kingdom ignore the "longstanding convention" of the British Royal Family's "right" to this tartan.
The society also claims that non-royals who wear this tartan are treated with "great disdain" by the Scottish tartan industry.
These "rules" are mere conventions; there are no laws regarding the wearing of any tartan. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. For other uses, see Tartan disambiguation. Music and performing arts. Scotland portal United Kingdom portal. It is thought that the soldiers depicted were part of Mackay's Regiment which served under Gustavus Adolphus in Stettin present-day Szczecin , Poland.
The men are depicted in dress varying from belted plaid , draped plaids and tartan breeches with tartan hose. On which I asked him, Where's your Bonnet? He reply'd, Somebody have snatched it off my Head. Clan Logan is currently without a chief. Their ancestors wore plaids of many different colours and numbers still retain this custom, but the majority, now, in their dress, prefer a dark brown, imitating nearly the leaves of heather; than when lying upon the heath in the day, they may not be discovered by the appearance of their clothes".
Retrieved 22 February Archived from the original on 10 February Retrieved 31 May Retrieved March 4, Archived from the original PDF on Retrieved 12 October Archived from the original on 17 April Retrieved 16 October The original word was the Luwian "pldtmn" and then later Latin "paludamentum" or "cloak" Smith's Dictionary of Greek and Roman Antiquities.
The paludamentum was a plaid or red cloak put on by Caesar in time of war. Archived from the original on 4 June Retrieved 22 October The mystery of China's celtic mummies".
Archived from the original on 3 April Retrieved 11 October Scottish Tartans World Register. Archived from the original on 4 October Retrieved 8 October Retrieved 9 October Banks and de la Chapelle cite this quotation from Scarlett, James D. Tartan, The Highland Textile , p. The Highland Tradition of Scotland".
In Hobsbawm, Eric ; Ranger, Terence. The Invention of Tradition. National Galleries of Scotland. Retrieved 9 January Retrieved 7 October Archived from the original on 22 March Retrieved 6 October Scots Design Jewish Tartan".
The Jewish Daily Forward. Retrieved 10 May Retrieved 1 May Department of Canadian Heritage. Archived from the original on 8 June Retrieved 24 September Archived from the original on 16 August The Scottish Register of Tartans.
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History of highland dress: Brocade Camlet Damask Lampas Songket. Retrieved from " https: Views Read Edit View history. In other projects Wikimedia Commons.
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